Last night I had the pleasure of an invitation to attend the pre-opening of da Luca, the new wine bar and cafe over in Old Trail in the village square.  When you walk in this place, you enter a darkened, city atmosphere redolent with copper, deep soothing olive greens, and funky lighting–yet with the best view of the tallest mountain outside.  Additionally, they have cafe style tables outside, and on a nice day, they won’t be beatable for the views.

I hung with Heather and Brad and Sharon and Scott, who were on their way to another opening at the new art museum, and we enjoyed tapas that can compete with the best of Mas or Si, along with a more extensively Italian wine list.   We met Domenico, the owner, who’s rightly proud of his new place.   Sadly,  I had to skitter off to Back to School night at Crozet Elementary, so I couldn’t linger…..but I wanted to, definitely a compliment for da Luca!

I got to meet Tristan’s new teacher, who is a whirlwind of energy, and see now why he’s so excited that 5th grade will be the best ever.  Plus, he has essentially all but one of his closest friends in with him—very helpful indeed on those sleepy mornings.

Those of you familiar with Oslo already know its charms–its waterfront setting, numerous parks, ease of getting around, etc.  Our second day was devoted to seeing the sights of the past–via museums.  I was most interested in the Viking Ships museum and the Kon Tiki museum, and we set off to the little peninsula that contains both of those, riding the bus!  (Yes,  I like to attempt EVERY type of public transport a town has to offer!)   After a good free breakfast in the hotel, Chris and I set off with a plan to avoid eating until dinner to save some kroners (note: Norway is extremely expensive!)   The bus stopped at the Viking ships museum, and we stopped and had a Coke Zero and a coffee before proceeding into the museum, enjoying some of the sunny weather as we enjoyed our respective caffeines of choice.

The Vikings were ship building, ocean-going explorers and conquerors.  The Viking Ships museum has three ships and their contents, all recovered from burial mounds where fancy folks were buried, goods and food and other items along with them, in these ships!  The clay preserved the wood and many of the items that had not been removed by grave robbers, giving us the chance to know their craft beyond legend.   Reminded me a bit of the Cadillac Ranch idea, or those guys who want to be buried in their cars….but on a bigger scale!  The Vikings were slave holders, so they probably didn’t care much how many person-hours it would take to bury the rich and all their stuff.

Next on the itinerary was the Kon Tiki museet, which should really be called the Thor Heyerdahl museum.  I knew a tiny bit about Kon Tiki, having ready some story of it during childhood, probably in a Reader’s Digest condensed book!  But I really didn’t know how interesting this anthropologist turned activist and peace crusader was, and the result of the museum was my purchase of two of his books and a newly lit desire to learn more (surely the mark of a successful museum!)

After Kon Tiki we chose to take the ferry back to the city center, but had a little time to wait and watch some swimmers and enjoy sitting on the shore.  We walked by the Fram, apparently the first ship to conquer the northern passage, several hundred years ago!  (These Norwegians were/are hardy people!)

The ferry ride was comfortable and got us back quickly and we then chose to go to a more traditional museum–the Munch museet.   Hilariously, Chris thought I was saying Monk Museum, and he couldn’t imagine what would be interesting….but we arrived quite late and did not get to spend enough time here.  Edvard Munch is of course the painter of the iconic Scream, (its Norse title looks more like Shriek) which I didn’t know was part of a series.  That painting is newly on display again after its recovery following the 2004 robbery.

The museum has incredible visible security, and one can only imagine all of the other security behind the scenes.  But back to the artist– He was much affected by love and loss over a 15 year period and the series, the Frieze of Life,  depicts all of the stages–early attraction, sexual obsession and satisfaction, disaffection and heartbreak, and attempts at reclaiming one’s life without the loved one.  All of the final paintings in this series are displayed in a large rectangular room, behind walls of glass.  Subsequent rooms display a number of versions and sketches on the pivotal series, as well as other subjects.  He had a long career and the museum should be savored–unfortunately, we were only in room 3 when a dominatrix of a docent shooed us out, scolding us that we had to be OUT of the museum by 6—-sigh.  We attempted to walk out SLOWLY while she herded us from the rear.

At that point, we were hungry, but decided first to visit a large botanical garden directly adjacent to the Munch Museet, but had a hard time finding our way IN—there is only one main entrance/exit and the rest of the park is surrounded by wrought iron tall walls including some areas with barbed wire!  (What could they be growin’ in there?)  After finding our way in, we meandered among the tree-lined path up then descended the zones of the Earth and looked at the different species from Asia, Africa, the Americas, Europe, etc., all arranged into related zones through a dramatic rock garden with streams and waterfalls.  It looks like they are digging a new section, adding new boulders that will probably host further diverse examples.  This was a lovely spot and again we wished we’d gotten there a bit earlier, if only to take better photos and linger longer.

Chris had read that the new ethnically diverse hip youthful area was Grunland, which turned out to be just a bit down the main street out of the botanical gardens.  We walked down and finally heard the clamor of life among peoples who are not the tall White Norwegians.  There we found a bounty of all kinds of food, from Italian to Greek to African etc., and walked in and among the restaurants, checking menus and noting that some places seemed not to serve food but drinks only—the previous night, we thought we were too late.  This night, were we too early?  Finally we decided on the hilariously named Ali Baba joint, where we had delicious Italian style pizza.

First, a stop for acclimating to the jet lag in surprising Oslo, Norway.  After landing and taking the train to the city central, we found the hotel easily.  We stayed up all day and saw most of what this small and charming city has to offer, including the changing of the guard at the Palace.

Next on to the city center and the waterfront areas.

Boat trip all around the Oslo bay

Best bud and co-trainer extraordinaire!

Oslo's New Opera House

We also visited the Nobel Peacc Prize Center when we were in the Aker Brygge area.  After that, a jump on the tram and bus took us over to Vigeland Park, which has an amazing set of sculptures in a garden setting.  Too many images to show on this page; here are just a few!

Karen copying statue (poorly!)

I think after the park we found some very expensive beer then a very expensive dinner after which we ran back to the hotel bar for one drink, soaked from rain.  A great day of adjusting to the time shift.  I fell asleep to BBC news and slept soundly until the next morning, when I met Chris in the restaurant for breakfast.  He was already caffeinating and I was feeling rough!  But on to day 2!

Hungry cousins

James, me, Tristan, and Mom

After Jamie and Tristan left to visit their paternal grandmother, Erica and James and I took my Mom for a first for her and a second for them–tubing on the James River.   No photos from on the River due to my avoiding getting my phone or camera wet!  But it was a glorious day, and we all enjoyed the clear water, lunch on the rocks, and floating our cares away on the mini-rapids….

Post-tubing Erica, Emilie, and James

My sweet niece and nephew with their happy Aunt Karen

I couldn’t let the opportunity pass to get in one more educational experience.  Mom and I took Erica and James up to Montpelier, the newly restored home of James Madison.  I’d been there in the 90s when it still housed Dupont era Art Deco items and changes to the interior and exterior.  It’s been completely changed, back to the Madison era…..we all enjoyed the trip, but it was a hot August day so we were glad we went late! 

Erica James and Emilie with Dolley and James Madison

James, Karen, and Erica at Montpelier

Mom and kids in front of the only surviving Madison era tree

The summer ended with a really exciting event for my boys–their first trip to New York City.  Their dad took them on a long weekend to the city, and they arrived home excited–perhaps as much by the merch as the experiences!

Tristan and Jamie, back from NYC and all smiles

For three years, Amy has worked as the motor of my research team—keeping us all on track.  She started as a research assistant and it became clear very quickly that she was something special, so we promoted her to Project Coordinator.  At the peak, she was managing the daily operations of 3 NIH grants, a few pilot studies, and supervising Research Specialists and Tape Coders across 3 projects in 2 cities.  Alas, her talents did not go unnoticed by others who recently poached her away!  So, we had to say farewell in the usual fashion–with a party!  Here are some shots from that event in mid August. 

Some of our amazing team

Guest of honor flanked by Kendall and Shivi

James, Erica, Jamie (back) and Will, Tristan, and Chase (on floor)

We grilled some food and had a DQ Ice Cream Cake at T’s request.  He was thrilled to have his buds to play with and also to receive several exceptionally nice gifts!

Birthday Bike for the growing Tike

Now….on to 5th grade!

In contrast, the next day we toured Jamestown Settlement along with the ships and glass blowing factory.  Now this was a cool experience, very hands on, and one of the better ways for the kids to get a sense of what it might have been like to live here in 1604…..

Still, the pool play was what they wanted most, so they spent most of my training day devising amazing new leaps and games in the pool.

That night, our intrepid crew set off for Ocracoke.  The boys have gone there on day trips, but I never had gotten the chance.  I knew it was  a long drive even just to Hatteras, but it was VERY long with our caravan and slower driving than I usually do…..

Ocracoke Village, on only one end of the 13 mile island.

We were starting to sweat whether we’d make the ferry from Hatteras to Ocracoke that night, with the last boat at midnight.  Then we hit a major storm, with rain coming in ferocious sheets that threatened to toss us off the road.  Luckily, we made it into the ferry line in time, and made the midnight crossing onto this small and nearly pristine island.

The happiest days are beach days!

The next five days were  a little bit of heaven.  While the house we rented was a little….rustic….we enjoyed its location close to the Ocracoke Lighthouse and just the perfect walking distance from the best little local ice cream shop, (The Slushy Stand and Bike Shop) where I took to having the best hot fudge sundae ever….EVERY night!!!!!

Days were filled with packing coolers and the cars to find the “best” uncrowded beach, followed by long hours of boogie boarding, body surfing, shell collecting, and bird attracting…. Each night we explored a different (small) restaurant and finally selected as our favorite a simple pizza joint!  The beaches are untouched, and you can really imagine that it has been this way for hundreds of years….I will cherish these memories for a LONG time.

This is a view of the cafe at the new entry.

Here are Erica, James, Jamie, and Tristan l-r sitting on a cistern on the grounds after our house tour.

Here are Erica and James posing by the grand house.

Here are Mom and the cousins.

Here’s my nephew James posing in the learning center.

The cousins enjoying an al fresco cafe lunch.

Here they were enjoying exploring the vegetable garden and grounds, fooling around of course and being silly.  That’s what summer is for, for kids!

I’m  experimenting with an old time family style vacation this year, hosting my niece and nephew along with my boys for a month.

I think I finally got a short video of some recent pool play to upload; videography skills (a la myself and my 1st born)not great, but hilarity abounds.   Check out the kids having a fun day!

A couple of years ago, I assigned myself the task of reading Julia Child’s masterpiece, the tome Mastering the Art of French Cooking.

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For weeks, I read every recipe and instruction, and I prepared a few of them including classics like beef bourgignon and omelettes (surprisingly and eloquently described, including how to know when the butter is ready for the eggs!).

Similarly, when reading Waters’ book, I savored each recipe.  She uses a much simpler style, fewer ingredients, and yet, their philosophies wind up to be quite similar.  Know the food you’re eating.  Know its source.  Know whether it’s really food.

A decade ago, I read a book called Real Food, Fake Food.  It was not a critique of the food industry as much as a caveat emptor book that helped me to understand what those crazy labels really mean.   The author was the first person I’d noticed talking about the realities of modern food in the U.S.  Her ideas offered insight into why older folks complained that food didn’t taste as good as it once did.  Well, our food has been bred for plenty rather than flavor, so it’s not a problem with old folks’ taste buds.

More recently, Michael Pollan has built himself a cozy cottage industry with The Omnivore’s Dilemma and In Defense of Food.

Now there’s a hot documentary, Food Inc., which I believe will make some of the same points.  In an interview I saw with the filmmaker, some stunning numbers were reported:  Americans used to spend about 18% of our income on food and 5% on medical care.  Now it’s 9% spent on food, but 24% or more spent on medical care.  We’re spending more, but in different pots, and we are less healthy in many ways.

Simply put, the points are ones I’m trying to follow, certainly more than I used to before this decade of reading everything from ecological political essays to cookbooks.  Borrowed from Pollan and the opening story in Malcolm Gladwell’s Outliers, they are:

Eat Food.  Not Too Much.  Enjoy it with Others, and Make it a ritual of sharing.

All of this led me to join a Community Supported Agriculture Cooperative, in which I get a food “share” every week that includes all fresh local produce, eggs from pastured chickens (not cooped, grass ranging!) and then supplement this bounty with farmer’s market or grocery organic goods.  My food bill, however, has not increased, perhaps due to no longer purchasing food products that are not really food (see point 1 above: eat actual FOOD).  Here is an example of a CSA  share I got recently:

This summer, while caring for and feeding 4 hungry kids ages 9-13, plus myself, I’ll be challenging myself to make the most of this bounty, fresh and local, and to supplement it with really good, local, and real food.  Wish me luck!